🧩 Rebuild detail in a blocky image.

Unpixelate Image

Rebuild detail in a blocky image. Set the options to suit you, and download the result at full resolution with no watermark.

🧩
Upload a photo to start

Click anywhere in this box or drag a photo in. Set the options on the left, then hit Generate — your original stays untouched, you always see both.

+ Choose a photo
JPG · PNG · WEBP, up to 10MB

See it in action — real before & after

Unpixelate Image — before and after
Made with Unpixelate Image — the same thing your upload goes through.

How to use Unpixelate Image

01

Scan or photograph the print

A flatbed scan at 600 dpi is ideal. A phone photo works: lay the print flat, use indirect daylight, avoid your own shadow and any glare from the surface.

02

Choose the repair

Repair damage, correct faded colour, colourise a black-and-white original, or describe what the photo needs in a sentence.

03

Compare and download

Check the result against the scan at full size, then download at full resolution. Keep both — the scan is the document, the restoration is the reading of it.

Why use Unpixelate Image

What Unpixelate Image does

Rebuild detail in a blocky image.

Detail brought back out

Contrast that has flattened over decades is restored, and detail buried in dense shadow or a washed highlight is recovered.

Faces treated with care

The face is the reason the photo is being restored. Features are reconstructed conservatively rather than replaced with a generic plausible face.

Grain and noise handled properly

Film grain is reduced without smearing away the fine detail that sits at the same scale — the usual failure of automatic denoising.

Colourisation available

Black-and-white originals can be colourised with period-plausible tones, and the monochrome version is still there afterwards.

Print-ready resolution

Enough resolution to reprint and frame, which is what most people restoring a photo intend to do with it.

What Unpixelate Image changes

Reconstruct this pixelated image at higher fidelity: rebuild smooth edges and plausible fine detail from the visible block structure, without inventing features that contradict the original. Preserve the same person's recognizable identity from the uploaded reference: face shape, forehead, cheekbones, jawline, eye shape and spacing, eyebrows, nose, lips, natural asymmetry, age appearance, skin tone and distinctive features. Do not replace them with a generic AI face or beautify/idealize their features. Keep natural skin texture and pores; avoid waxy smoothing, exaggerated eyes, reshaped facial features and artificial symmetry. Change only what the app's requested transformation requires. For photographic results, use realistic camera detail: natural skin texture and pores, believable eyes and hair strands, coherent lighting and shadows, correct anatomy and perspective, and matching sharpness across face, neck and body. Avoid waxy skin, over-retouching, distorted features, face-morphing and pasted-on faces. If the app intentionally creates artwork, render the requested medium consistently across the whole image instead of forcing photorealism.

Your face, bone structure and skin tone are held fixed on every generation — only what is described above is changed.

Unpixelate Image for the damage prints actually have

Different decades fail differently. A 1940s silver print, a 1975 colour snapshot and a 1998 disposable-camera photo each need a different repair.

Torn and creased prints

Fold lines, corner losses and surface scratches from decades in an envelope or an album.

Faded colour from the 60s to the 80s

Dye layers fade at different rates, which is why these photos go magenta. Reversing the shift is the single biggest improvement available.

Black-and-white originals

Contrast restored, dust and scratches removed, and colourisation offered as an option rather than forced on you.

Water and mould damage

Staining and bloom from damp storage, which is what loft and basement boxes almost always produce.

Key highlights of Unpixelate Image

Benefits

No specialist to find or pay

Professional photo restoration runs from $20 to well over $100 per image and takes days. This is a minute and a couple of credits.

Work through a whole box

Because the per-photo cost is small, restoring forty prints is a realistic weekend rather than a commission.

Nothing is risked

The print is never handled beyond being scanned, and the digital original is not modified.

Reprintable output

Resolution sufficient to reprint at a useful size and frame it.

Shareable with family immediately

The usual reason for restoring a photo is to send it to relatives who have never seen it clearly.

What people use it for

What it is mainly used for

Rebuild detail in a blocky image. Set the options to suit you, and download the result at full resolution with no watermark.

Genealogy and family archives

Restored images attached to a family tree, alongside the unaltered scans.

Local history and archive projects

Faded documentary photographs made legible for display or publication.

Damaged wedding albums

Albums from the 70s and 80s where the adhesive pages have discoloured the prints themselves.

Reprinting for a frame

A restored file at print resolution, sent to any printing service.

Prompt ideas

Describe the damage you can see and say what must not change. Restoration prompts fail when they are ambitious — asking for a photo to be "improved" invites the model to make a new one.

Describe the colour shift

"Remove the magenta cast from faded colour film and restore neutral skin tones" names the actual chemistry of the problem.

Protect the faces

"Reconstruct conservatively and keep the faces exactly as they are" is the most important line in any family restoration.

Say whether to colourise

"Keep it black and white" or "colourise with natural period-appropriate tones" — leaving it unsaid means the model decides.

Ask for era-plausible colour

"1950s colour palette, muted, no modern saturation" avoids a restoration that looks like a photo taken last year.

Address grain deliberately

"Reduce grain but keep detail in the fabric and hair" gets a better result than asking for it to be removed.

Mention the background separately

"Repair the water stain in the upper right of the background" isolates a fix that would otherwise affect the whole frame.

More about Unpixelate Image

Photographic prints fail in predictable ways. The emulsion cracks along a fold, silver-based blacks fade to brown, colour dyes from the 1970s shift magenta, and anything stored in a loft gains water stains and a curl that cannot be flattened. Unpixelate Image addresses that damage from a phone photo or a flatbed scan of the print.

Restoration is not enhancement. The goal is to return the photograph to what it looked like when it was made — repairing physical damage, correcting the shift in the dyes, recovering detail the fading has buried — without inventing a new photograph. Where damage has destroyed information completely, plausible reconstruction is the honest description of what happens, and it is worth knowing which parts of a result are recovery and which are inference.

Each restoration costs 2 credits from a one-time pack. Working through a box of family prints one at a time is affordable, and the originals stay exactly as they are — nothing is overwritten.

Getting the best result from Unpixelate Image

  • Crop to the photograph itself, not the album page or the mount around it.
  • Do one repair at a time and check each result at full size.
  • Always say "keep the faces as they are" for family photos. Faces are where invention is least welcome.
  • For faded colour, correct the cast before attempting anything else.
  • Keep the unaltered scan permanently. It is the actual document; the restoration is an interpretation.
  • Expect plausible reconstruction where damage destroyed detail, and look closely before treating those areas as recovered fact.
  • For badly damaged photos, two conservative passes beat one aggressive one.
  • If a face comes back wrong, re-run rather than accept it — variation between runs is significant on damaged sources.

It runs online — nothing to install. Explore the rest of our AI Creative Apps, or open the full AI photo editor for more control.

Frequently Asked Questions

How does the unpixelate image work?
Rebuild detail in a blocky image. Upload your image, set the options on the left — they are written into the instruction the AI receives — then hit Generate. You see the original and the result side by side, so you can always compare before downloading.
What photo should I upload?
A clear, front-facing, well-lit photo gives the most faithful result. Heavy sunglasses, extreme angles and deep shadows all make the face harder to preserve.
Is the unpixelate image free?
The free tools on this site are unlimited. This one is an AI app, so it uses credits. Each generation costs 2 credits. Packs start at $2, they are a one-time purchase and they never expire.
Will it still look like me?
That is the instruction the prompt leads with: keep the face, bone structure and skin tone exactly, and change only the styling. If a result drifts, run it again — generation is not deterministic, and a second pass usually lands.
Do you watermark the download?
No. Every export is full resolution with nothing added, on any pack.
Can it repair a photo that is torn or has a missing corner?
Yes. Tears, creases, scratches and missing areas are reconstructed from the surrounding image. Where the damage removed information entirely, the fill is plausible reconstruction rather than recovery — so look closely at those areas before treating them as a record of what was there.
Will it change the faces?
It is tuned to reconstruct faces conservatively, and adding "keep the faces exactly as they are" to the prompt reinforces that. On heavily damaged faces some interpretation is unavoidable; if a result does not look like the person, run it again, because variation between runs on damaged sources is significant.
Should I colourise, or keep it black and white?
Both — they are separate runs and nothing is overwritten. Colourisation makes an old photo feel immediate and is what most people share. The monochrome version is the accurate one. Keeping both is the usual answer.
How should I scan the print?
A flatbed scan at 600 dpi, print taken out from behind any glass, cropped to the photograph itself. A phone photo is a perfectly good substitute if the print is flat, the light is indirect daylight and there is no glare or shadow across it.

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